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Allied is set on the early 40’s, in the middle of World War II. Max Vatan (Brad Pitt) is a French – Canadian commander and agent, who collaborates with french agent of the allied intelligence, Marianne Beausejour (Marion Cotillard) who is in Morocco, investigating the army of the German occupation , based in Casablanca, together, the two agents, must carry out a dangerous mission in North Africa.

Aliados está ambientada en los años 40, en plena Segunda Guerra Mundial. Max Vatan (Brad Pitt)  Es un comandante y agente franco – canadiense, que colabora, con una agente de la inteligencia del bando aliado, la agente francesa Marianne Beausejour (Marion Cotillard) que se encuentra en Marruecos, investigando al ejército de la ocupación Alemana, radicada en Casablanca, juntos, los dos agentes, deberán realizar una peligrosa misión en el norte de África.

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To create the look and feel of the period drama, director Robert Zemeckis shot the film mostly in studio, harkening back to the days of classics like Casablanca. “Bob wanted it shot like a classic film where you create the world, you don’t shoot the world,” says costume designer Joanna Johnston (who previously worked with Zemeckis on Forrest Gump, Cast Away and Back to the Future).

El glamour exótico en Marruecos y la capital Británica de  Londres, en plena segunda guerra mundial. Son las premisas, para el vestuario de Aliados, no podían ser más prometedoras y, sin embargo, la diseñadora del equipo de Robert Zemeckis, Joanna Johnston, apenas tuvo unas semanas para documentarse sobre la época. Es por ello que decidió inspirarse por los mejores clásicos del cine, como la ya bien conocida Casablanca.

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The challenge with costuming such a high-profile film that’s based on a true story is the details. “The 1940s was such a glamorous time period for fashion; I think people intentionally dressed like that during the tumultuous time period just to keep their spirits up,” says Johnston who had a little over four months to do the research and spent many hours poring over noir classics such as the aforementioned Casablanca, To Have and Have Not and Now Voyager, as well as studying the style of period favorites like Hedy Lamarr, Katharine Hepburn, Gary Cooper and Charles Boyer. To recreate Casablanca, the director and their team traveled to  Gran Canary Island and Fuerteventura,  were all exteriors were filmed.

No solo revisó el clásico de Michael Curtiz por los parecidos en el planteamiento sino “por su aire eterno”. “Todo el vestuario que llevaba Ingrid Bergman se ve tan bien hoy como entonces. Podríamos usarlo ahora”, dice Johnston, que también se fijó en el estilo de Lauren Bacall, Barbara Stanwyck o Katharine Hepburn. Los conjuntos más informales que lleva Marion Cotillard en las escenas del desierto, por ejemplo, está obviamente inspirado en la pionera de los pantalones. Para la ambientación de las tomas y escenas en Casablanca, se utilizaron los exteriores, de la  bellísima isla de Gran Canarias en Fuerteventura.

La magia y el encanto  de “Casablanca” vuelve a la vida en “Aliados”

The Magic and glamour of “Casablanca is back in  “Allied”

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“I always develop a crush on a period when I’m doing a film and I became seriously obsessed with Barbara Stanwyck and her style,” adds Johnston.

“This is the first time we see Marion’s character in the film and I wanted her to look sexy and elegant. The dress is quite structured and was made from a beautiful Italian silk that had a silver thread running through it, which gave a gorgeous shimmer,” says costume designer Joanna Johnston

“Esta es la primera vez que vemos el personaje de Marion en la película y quería que se vea sexy y elegante.El vestido es bastante estructurado y estaba hecho de una seda italiana hermosa que tenía un hilo de plata que atraviesa, lo que dio un brillo magnífico , “Dice la diseñadora de vestuario Joanna Johnston

 

Since the film was initially shot in studio in London (with later exteriors in Grand Cayman playing the role of Morocco), Johnston didn’t have to go far when it came to sourcing. “My first port of all is always the clothes market on Portobello Road. I’ll just tell the dealers what time period I’m working with and they’ll pull pieces for me.”

 

Of course, no matter how pristine the condition a garment has been preserved in, it’s rare that an authentic piece can be worn by a star; looks are cobbled together from various design inspirations and details, with prints changed and accessories added. “When working on a period piece, it’s important to focus on capturing the essence of that period in a way that isn’t jarring to the audience and will help transport them into that world,” says producer Graham King.

When Johnson found out Pitt was to be the male lead, she immediately hired tailor Michael Sloan (Lincoln and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button) and got classics clothiers on board like Mackintosh for Pitt’s raincoats, as well as century-old English shoemakers Crockett & Jones for his timeless brogues. For the military uniforms, she enlisted the guidance of period expert Andrew Fletcher “because I knew I needed to be on terra firma for that since they have to be extremely accurate, and especially for Brad’s role, the uniforms were the anchor point,” adds Johnson.

 

“I changed the design of the hat a little bit but it was totally an homage to Bette Davis in Now, Voyager,” says Johnston.

 

Y para los vestidos más glamurosos, espectaculares piezas de seda que acompañan a la actriz francesa en su movimiento, Johnston recuperó el estilismo de Bette Davis en La extraña pasajera.

For Cotillard, the options were endless and also created some of the most challenging work. Every piece for the lead actors was custom made and, while invisible to the average movie goer, took weeks of painstaking problem solving. A favorite piece of Cotillard’s features a cream blouse with a full skirt and involved custom printing a fabric and then painstaking sewing box pleats to make sure the patterns matched up perfectly.

Todos los vestidos de Marion Cotillard se hicieron exclusivamente para la película. Aunque, como siempre hace, Johnston pasó antes por Portobello Road para buscar telas y piezas vintage de la época.

“You always get a good feel from what the crew say when the actor first walks on set, and this one got a big thumbs up,” says Johnston of the outdoor cafe scene in a Moroccan market.

“Los 40 fueron una época tan glamurosa en la moda, creo que la gente se vestía intencionadamente así durante la guerra para mantenerse animados”, dice la diseñadora.

So like Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman over half a century before them, Pitt and Cotillard, take a style that was as revered and copied then as it is now. “Joanna’s overall vision for the characters’ costumes made the story come alive and the combination of all the elements draws you into the film in a way I’ve never seen before,” adds King. Here’s looking at you, kids.

Aunque es el vestuario de Cotillard el que tiene resultados más llamativos, el de Brad Pitt también lleva mucha investigación detrás. Para sus trajes, Johnston se inspiró en Gary Cooper o Charles Boyer. Y mientras en el resto del vestuario se tomó licencias creativas, para el traje del ejército tanto del personaje de Pitt como el del resto, pidió ayuda para que todo fuera lo más real posible, como quería Zemeckis.

 

Here is all the best costumes used in the movie Allied

Aquí están todos los modelos mas famosos utilizados en la película Aliados.

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Written C.Donoso by Positive Diva

Design from  Joanna Johnston, fotos from Allied movie by Paramount Pictures films 

 

 

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