Karl Lagerfeld la Leyenda​ de Chanel Biografia de un Diseñador/ Biography of a leyend D​esigner

por Catalina Donoso (article Spanish/ in English )

Las personas llegan a la inmortalidad a través del recuerdo que le guardamos, Karl Lagerfeld ha dejado un tremendo legado entre los diseños de Chanel, por todo sus años de trabajo e influencia en la moda algo que sin duda llevaremos toda las mujeres y el cariño de los hombres. En su partida no es un adiós a este mundo, es un hasta siempre por que cada vez que vea y lleve tus vestidos estarás con nosotros.

People come to immortality through the memory that we keep to them Karl Lagerfeld has left a tremendous legacy in Channel design, He will be remembered for all his years of work and influence on the fashion industry, without a doubt I am certain every time we wear your design or even admired you will be always in our heart, you are living us for a better place but you won’t be forgotten.

Biografia

Su padre Otto Lagerfeld era miembro de una familia de banqueros sueca e hizo su fortuna al introducir la leche en polvo en Alemania. Su madre Elizabeth Bahlmann era miembro de una familia noble alemana. Karl fue su único hijo en común; nació diez años después de que la pareja se casara, cuando su madre tenía 42 y su padre 60. Ambos habían tenido otros hijos en matrimonios anteriores.

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Lagerfeld emigró a París en 1953. En 1955, a los veintidós años, Lagerfeld fue premiado con un puesto de trabajo en la casa de modas Pierre Balmain, tras haber ganado un concurso patrocinado por el Secretariado Internacional de Lana. No era la primera vez que participaba; años antes Yves Saint Laurent.

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Lagerfeld se hizo un nombre como creador independiente, colaborando con una variedad de diferentes casas de moda que incluyen nombres como Chloé, Fendi y Chanel. Además, en los 80 fundó su propia marca, llamada Karl Lagerfeld, la cual lanzó perfumes y líneas de ropa.

Lagerfeld era conocido por su gusto y costumbres elitistas, de una excentricidad a veces snob, que no dudaba en mezclar con guiños a la cultura de consumo y a las estrellas populares. A principios de la década de 1990 eligió a nudistas y a una estrella italiana de filmes eróticos (Moana Pozzi) para que desfilasen con su colección Blanco y negro para la firma Fendi. A las críticas contra Pozzi, Lagerfeld respondió: «Las mujeres comunes caminan como Moana y como modelos al 50%».

Produjo piezas legendarias como bañador con agua burbujeante brotando en el frente, un vestido imitando un automóvil con una parrilla de radiador y parachoques, y un sinfín de sombreros excéntricos.

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Lagerfeld trabajó como diseñador por las casas de moda más importantes:

  • 1955-1958: Pierre Balmain
  • 1958-1963: Jean Patou
  • 1963-1978, 1992-1997: Chloé
  • 1965-2019: Fendi
  • 1974-2019: Karl Lagerfeld
  • 1983-2019: Chanel
  • 2004: Hennes & Mauritz (H&M)

En la edición francesa de la revista Architectural Digest en mayo de 2012, Lagerfeld muestra su apartamento en París. Él también reveló su vasta colección de pins Suzanne Belperron y broches y se utiliza el color de uno de sus anillos de calcedonia azul como el punto de partida Chanel para la primavera / verano 2012 colección.

En 2004 diseñó algunos atuendos para la gira internacional de Madonna Re-Invention Tour y recientemente, diseñó algunos para la gira “Showgirl” de Kylie Minogue.

Lagerfeld colaboró con la firma de moda sueca H&M. El 12 de noviembre de 2004, H&M ofreció un número limitado de diferentes prendas en centros comerciales seleccionados, para mujeres y hombres. Sólo dos días después de haber surtido los centros comerciales, H&M había anunciado que todas sus prendas habían sido agotadas. Lagerfeld ha dicho que no teme que trabajar con firmas más populares manche su imagen.

En el 2017, colaboró con la tienda Falabella, ofreciendo diferentes productos como polos, blusas, pantalones, zapatos, zapatillas, bolsos, entre otros.

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También fue fotógrafo y produjo Visonaire 23: The Emperor’s New Clothes, una serie de fotografías de desnudos del modelo sudafricano David Miller. En 1996 recibió el premio de cultura de la asociación alemana de fotografía.

Además, el hecho de que «el rey de la moda» o el “Kaiser” (como llamaban a Karl en Alemania y en otros diversos países de Europa) estuvo personalmente interesado en el grupo musical Tokio Hotel, demostró que el líder de dicho grupo, Bill Kaulitz, está muy familiarizado con el mundo de moda. En otoño de 2009Lagerfeld fotografió a Kaulitz para la Vogue alemana, lo que fue un gran honor para Bill:

“Empecé a estar interesado en esto a una edad muy temprana, también cosí y diseñé unas cosas por mí mismo y por supuesto es un sueño hacer algo para alguien como Karl Lagerfeld, para mí fue completamente un momento genial y por supuesto estuve feliz de que él se diese cuenta, él mirase y le gustase y eso, también creo que él es súper”. (Bill Kaulitz, cantante de Tokio Hotel).

En 2010, fue el fotógrafo elegido para el tradicional Calendario Pirelli del año siguiente. Caracterizó a las modelos (entre ellas, la actriz Julianne Moore) como personajes mitológicos y (por primera vez en dicho calendario) incluyó desnudos masculinos.

Como director creativo de Chanel, realizó personalmente las campañas publicitarias de la casa, con sus propias fotografías.

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Lagerfeld was born on 10 September 1933 in Hamburg, to Elizabeth (née Bahlmann; 1897–1978) and businessman Otto Lagerfeld (1881–1967). His father owned a company that produced and imported evaporated milk; while his maternal grandfather, Karl Bahlmann, was a local politician for the Catholic Centre Party. His family belonged to the Old Catholic Church. When Lagerfeld’s mother met his father, she was a lingerie saleswoman from Berlin. His parents married in 1930.

Lagerfeld was known to misrepresent his birth year, claiming to be younger than his actual age and to misrepresent his parents’ background. For example, he claimed that he was born in 1938 to “Elisabeth of Germany” and Otto Ludwig Lagerfeldt from Sweden, although these claims have been conclusively proven to be entirely wrong, as his father was from Hamburg and spent his entire life in Germany, with no Swedish connection whatsoever. There is also no evidence that his mother Elisabeth Bahlmann, the daughter of a middle-class local politician, called herself “Elisabeth of Germany.” He was known to insist that no one knows his real birth date. In an interview on French television in February 2009, Lagerfeld said that he was “born neither in 1933 nor 1938.”

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In April 2013, he finally declared that he was born in 1935. A birth announcement was, however, published by his parents in 1933, and the baptismal register in Hamburg also lists him as born in that year, conclusively proving that he was born on 10 September 1933. Bild am Sonntag published his baptismal records in 2008 and interviewed his teacher and a classmate, who both confirmed that he was born in 1933. Despite that, Karl Lagerfeld announced publicly that he was celebrating his “70th birthday” on 10 September 2008, despite actually turning 75.

Biography of a Genius Karl Lagerfeld

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After attending a private school, Lagerfeld finished his secondary school at the Lycée Montaigne in Paris, where he majored in drawing and history. In 1955, after living in Paris for two years, Lagerfeld entered a coat design competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat at the age of sixteen. He won the competition and befriended Yves Saint Laurent, and was soon after hired by Pierre Balmain. He worked as Balmain’s assistant, and later apprentice, for three years. In 1958, Lagerfeld became the artistic director for Jean Patou. In 1964, he went to Rome to study art history and work for Tiziano, but was soon designing freelance for a multitude of brands including Chloé, Charles Jourdan, Krizia, and Valentino.

In 1967, he was hired by Fendi to modernize their fur line. Lagerfeld’s innovative designed proved groundbreaking, as he introduced the use of mole, rabbit, and squirrel pelts into high fashion. Lagerfeld remained with Fendi until his death.

Lagerfeld is credited with making great use of Chanel’s “CC” logo during the 1980s

In the 1980s, Lagerfeld was hired by Chanel, which was considered a “near-dead brand” at the time since the death of designer Coco Chanel a decade prior. Lagerfeld brought life back into the company, making it a huge success by revamping its ready-to-wear fashion line.[25][4] Lagerfeld integrated the interlocked “CC” monograph of Coco Chanel into a style pattern for the House of Chanel. In 1984, a year after his start at Chanel, Lagerfeld began his own eponymous “Karl Lagerfeld” brand. The brand was established to channel “intellectual sexiness”. In 1993, US Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour walked out of his Milan Fashion Week runway show, when he employed strippers and adult-film star Moana Pozzi to model his black-and-white collection for Fendi.

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In 2002, Lagerfeld asked Renzo Rosso, the founder of Diesel, to collaborate with him on a special denim collection for the Lagerfeld Gallery. The collection, Lagerfeld Gallery by Diesel, was co-designed by Lagerfeld and then developed by Diesel’s creative team, under the supervision of Rosso. It consisted of five pieces that were presented during the designer’s catwalk shows during Paris Fashion Week and then sold in highly limited editions at the Lagerfeld Galleries in Paris and Monaco and at the Diesel Denim Galleries in New York and Tokyo. During the first week of sales in New York, more than 90% of the trousers were sold out, even though prices ranged from $240 to $1,840. In a statement after the show in Paris, Rosso said: “I am honoured to have met this fashion icon of our time. Karl represents creativity, tradition and challenge, and the fact that he thought of Diesel for this collaboration is a great gift and acknowledgement of our reputation as the prêt-à-porter of casual wear.”

Lagerfeld at the 2007 Cannes Film Festival In December 2006, Lagerfeld announced the launch of a new collection for men and women dubbed K Karl Lagerfeld, which included fitted T-shirts and a wide range of jeans. Lagerfeld and investments enterprise Dubai Infinity Holdings (DIH) signed a deal to design limited edition homes on the island of Isla Moda. A feature-length documentary film on the designer, Lagerfeld Confidential, was made by Vogue in 2007. Later in the year, Lagerfeld was made the host of the fictional radio station K109—the studio in the video game Grand Theft Auto IV. In 2008, he created a teddy bear in his likeness produced by Steiff in an edition of 2,500 that sold for $1,500. and has been immortalized in many forms, which include pins, shirts, dolls, and more. In 2009, Tra Tutti began selling Karl Lagermouse and Karl Lagerfelt, which are mini-Lagerfeld’s in the forms of mice and finger puppets, respectively. The same year, he lends his voice in the French animated film, Totally Spies! The Movie.

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Lagerfeld was a supporter of the use of fur in fashion. He himself did not wear fur and hardly ate meat. In a BBC interview in 2009, he claimed that hunters “make a living having learnt nothing else than hunting, killing those beasts who would kill us if they could” and maintained: “In a meat-eating world, wearing leather for shoes and clothes and even handbags, the discussion of fur is childish.” Spokespersons for PETA called Lagerfeld “a fashion dinosaur who is as out of step as his furs are out of style”, and “particularly delusional with his kill-or-be-killed mentality. When was the last time a person’s life was threatened by a mink or rabbit?”

Lagerfeld with Hermann Bühlbecker, Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco (2011)

In 2010, PETA cited Lagerfeld, who used fake fur in his 2010 Chanel collection, on its website as saying: “It’s the triumph of fake fur… because fake fur changed so much and became so great now that you can hardly see a difference.” In September 2010, the Couture Council of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology presented Lagerfeld with an award created for him, The Couture Council Fashion Visionary Award, at a benefit luncheon at Avery Fisher Hall, in New York City. In November 2010, Lagerfeld and Swedish crystal manufacturer Orrefors announced a collaboration to design a crystal art collection.The first collection was launched in spring 2011, called Orrefors by Karl Lagerfeld.

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A spread with pictures inside Lagerfeld’s apartment in Paris was published in the French issue of Architectural Digest in May 2012. He also revealed his vast collection of Suzanne Belperron’s pins and brooches and used the color of one of her blue chalcedony rings as the starting point for the Chanel spring/summer 2012 collection. Lagerfeld created an international furore on 9 February 2012, when he called the singer Adele “a little too fat.” This caused instant fury throughout the United Kingdom, and Lagerfeld responded with a statement of apology. Adele hit back by saying she is like the majority of women, and she is very proud of that fact. Lagerfeld later caused another controversy, on 31 July 2012, when he criticized Pippa Middleton, the sister of Kate Middleton, for her looks. The comment was made when Lagerfeld was praising Kate Middleton, for her “romantic beauty” before adding: “I don’t like the sister’s face. She should only show her back.”

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In 2013, he directed the short film Once Upon a Time… in the Cité du Cinéma, Saint-Denis, by Luc Besson, featuring Keira Knightley in the role of Coco Chanel and Clotilde Hesme as her aunt Adrienne Chanel. In 2014, an auction house in Florida announced that many of Lagerfeld’s early sketches for the House of Tiziani in Rome would be sold.In June 2016, it was announced that Lagerfeld would design the two residential lobbies of the Estates at Acqualina, a residential development in Miami’s Sunny Isles Beach.

This is a beauttiful master peace.

In October 2018, Lagerfeld in collaboration with Carpenters Workshop Gallery launched an art collection of functional sculptures titled Architectures. Sculptures were made of Arabescato Fantastico, a rare vibrant white marble with dark gray veins and black Nero Marquina marble with milky veins. Inspired by antiquity and referred to as modern mythology the ensemble consists of gueridons, tables, lamps, consoles, fountains and mirrors.

Lagerfeld lived in numerous homes over the years: an apartment in the rue de l’Université in Paris, decorated in the Art Deco style (1970s); the 18th-century Chateau de Penhoët in Brittany, decorated in the Rococo style (1970s to 2000); an apartment in Monte Carlo decorated until 2000 in 1980s Memphis style (from the early 1980s); the Villa Jako in Blankenese in Hamburg, decorated in the Art Deco style (mid-1990s to 2000); the Villa La Vigie in Monaco (the 1990s to 2000), a 17th-century mansion (hôtel particulier) in the Rue de l’Université in Paris, decorated in the Rococo and other styles (1980s to the 2000s); an apartment in Manhattan, although he never moved into or decorated it (2006 to 2012); the summer villa El Horria in Biarritz, decorated in the modern style (1990s–2006); and a house dating from the 1840s in Vermont (from the 2000s). From 2007, Lagerfeld owned an 1820s house in Paris in Quai Voltaire decorated in modern and Art Deco style.

Lagerfeld owned a red point Birman cat named Choupette, which, in June 2013, he indicated he would marry, if it were legal.

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